The Fashion Review: September
Peter Lindbergh's iconic Vogue Cover
Whilst the topic of conversation during September is always dominated by the Spring / Summer catwalk shows, there’s certainly been plenty more happening.
Known as ‘The January of Fashion’, September has been the perfect month for Oxfam to introduce ‘Second-Hand September’, a sustainable pledge to say no to new clothes for 30 days. With 11 million items of clothing ending up in landfill every week, it’s a great initiative to get the public motivated and a great opportunity for some second-hand finds. You can even share these fabulous finds online with Oxfam.
Second Hand September
Although ‘Second-Hand September’ is beneficial for the environment, it doesn’t necessarily help all of those retailers who often head up the news with disappointing figures and closures. September, however, has had some focus on both positive and negative stories around print publications. Marie Claire, one of the best-known women’s fashion magazines over the past three decades, announced that its UK edition would cease appearing on the shelves after its November issue, instead turning entirely digital. This news coincided with the return of ‘The Face’, that bastion of 90’s cool. With Harry Styles and Dua Lipa gracing two of its front covers; and costing close to a tenner to buy; only time will tell if it can battle against the current trend.
In retail news, the parent company of Oasis and Warehouse took its first steps into menswear, buying online retailer The Idle Man for an undisclosed sum. Launched in 2014 by Tezcan, a former Asos menswear buyer, it’s aim was to capitalise on the rising demands of male shoppers. Following the collapse of Coast last year, analysts had predicted that Oasis and Warehouse could suffer a similar fate, but, instead, they’ve shown growth within the market. It seems appropriate then that, at a time when there’s oversaturation of women’s fashion on the high street and online, the company has been savvy in acquiring an on-trend brand like The Idle Man to help improve for the future.
The Idle Man
As the prime month for fashion, the September issue of fashion magazines are always the brightest and boldest. For Vogue’s September issue, on sale in August, Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex, guest edited. Her eye-catching front cover was photographed by esteemed fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh, who sadly passed away at the beginning of this month. Famed for his preference for black and white photography, he told Vogue earlier this year: “I hate retouching. I hate make-up. I always say: ‘Take the make-up off!’” Amen to that!
Edward Enninful, Peter Lindbergh,Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie
Vogue September Issue 2019
As well as the first month for fashion, September brought a number of other firsts. South African womenswear designer Thebe Magugu became the first African designer to win the prestigious LVMH prize, as well as, at just 26, being the youngest participant of this year’s competition. With €300,000 winnings, Magugu will receive a year of business mentoring from the luxury goods conglomerate. Touchingly, he says it won’t mean he’ll automatically decamp to the fashion capital, Paris, instead he plans to maintain his focus on showcasing the creativity of contemporary South Africa.
But Magugu wasn’t the only winner this month. Tel Aviv-based designer Hed Mayner won the first-ever Karl Lagerfeld price of €150,000 plus mentoring, for his crossover-friendly menswear. It’ll be interesting to see where that support and investment takes both of these designers over the years. Maybe in a few seasons time they’ll become some of the must-sees at fashion month.
About Our Author: Katie Calvert's background is in fashion and textiles with a first class honours degree in Fashion Communication and Promotion and experience in trend, PR and events. She decided to take the plunge back into education in 2015 to complete a Master of Arts in Multimedia Journalism. Using these newfound skills and her love of fashion and culture, Katie has been freelance writing for over a year.