London Fashion Week: SS19
All imagery courtesy of Vogue.com
This season’s London Fashion Week (LFW) has seen two fashion greats celebrate 10 years, whilst all eyes may be on Victoria Beckham, but let’s not forget Mary Katrantzou and her utterly unique creative flair; one fashion talent showcase his first womenswear show for Burberry; and a whole host of fashion darlings discard real fur. And, of course, there were a few wearable fashion trends, reminding us that summer will soon be back with us again.
In the past year, many high-profile fashion designers have taken the decision to ban fur from their catwalk shows. Gucci, Michael Kors and Versace are among those to do so, whilst Tom Ford is now only using fur that is a by-product of food. Likewise, prior to the debut of Burberry’s new creative director, Ricardo Tisci, this season, the luxury brand announced that they had implemented a fur-free policy and that any remaining fur items were being phased out.
Spring Summer 2019 is the first LFW to ditch animal fur. As part of the British Fashion Council’s (BFC) positive fashion initiative, which is in place to encourage designers and businesses to consider sustainability, equality and diversity, alongside craftsmanship and community in their processes, they carried out a survey to determine which designers, if any, were using fur in their shows. All answers came back a resolute no, making this the first time that LFW can incisively say that fur is a no show on the catwalk. Although not an outright ban, Caroline Rush, BFC Chief Executive, has stated that they do not “define or control the creative process of the designers”, it adds weight to the growing debate that the use of animal products within the fashion industry should no longer be tolerated.
The lack of fur certainly didn’t dampen the talent that LFW has long been synonymous with. Wide belts hugged waists, fringing added a fun, flirty element, and narrow trousers styled under long tops or dresses got the thumbs up for what is usually a rubbish British summer (this year takes exception!).
Cumberband-style wide belts could be seen at Burberry and Christopher Kane, whilst high waists gave the same impression at Erdem and Delpozo, neatly bringing the two halves of the body together.
This year’s summer has been like no other, but we Brits must always brace ourselves for the usual wet and windy weather. Rather than pop leggings on when bare legs are a no no, take note instead from the likes of Victoria Beckham and Mary Katrantzou and choose a narrow, fitted trouser leg. If you’re feeling adventurous, try something patterned, a la Katrantzou.
For those who love comfort (who doesn’t?), the trainers with dresses look isn’t going anywhere. Christopher Kane added sex appeal to his styling with sheer lace, whilst Margaret Howell did what she does best; creating relaxed daytime looks with pleated skirts.
Pleats didn’t only play a part at Margaret Howell, at Burberry extra splits in the pleats revealed further pleats adding further sass as the models walked down the catwalk. Fringing had a similar effect. Sat below the knee at Mary Katrantzou and hanging off mid-length jackets at JW Anderson, the fringing kicked out from against the body.
As for colours, subtle olive appeared on the catwalks of JW Anderson, Margaret Howell and Molly Goddard in the form of long skirts and eye-catching trench coats. In contrast, bright, vibrant red shades seemed to be everywhere. Christopher Kane showcased his in lace, whilst Simone Rocha added red feathers to neck and cuffs.
But the real showstoppers were the headwear. Although some, such as Alexa Chung, played it safe, Simone Rocha and Erdem veiled their models in lace and embroidery, whilst the models at Delpozo appeared to have hundreds of petals tumbling down their faces.
About Our Author: Katie Calvert's background is in fashion and textiles with a first class honours degree in Fashion Communication and Promotion and experience in trend, PR and events. She decided to take the plunge back into education in 2015 to complete a Master of Arts in Multimedia Journalism. Using these newfound skills and her love of fashion and culture, Katie has been freelance writing for over a year.