Images courtesy of Vogue.com
Fashion is a constant cycle, and, even when you think the menswear spring summer shows have closed their doors, out pops up New York, following hot on the heels of Paris Haute Couture.
Since menswear gained its own fashion week in London 6 years ago, joining the likes of Paris and Milan, it had been expected that New York would swiftly join them. It took four years before that would happen, leaving New York’s spring summer shows precariously sitting a few months behind the other three fashion masters. Now that New York Men’s Fashion Week has wrapped up, it seems like the right time to do a little round up of these lesser publicised Fashion Weeks, showcasing the wearable and the brilliantly not so wearable!
Dries Van Noten
The one name at the forefront of fashion for the last few months has been Virgil Abloh, since the announcement of his appointment as Menswear Artistic Director at Louis Vuitton in March. For his debut menswear show, Abloh brought out a strong return to tailoring. An air of super cool tailoring, rather than the staid and old-fashioned, hung around this show. A double-breasted blazer and two-pleat trousers opened the show, in brilliant white. Other design houses followed this trailblazer. At Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, ‘Crazy Suits’ showcased tailoring that was exaggerated, jackets flared outwards, and the colours were definitely ‘crazy’. In complete contrast, Kim Jones, the other big name to be celebrated this season, debuted particularly elegant, French Riviera-esque tailoring for Dior Homme. Here, brilliant white reappeared.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
Kim Jones for Dior Homme
From classic tailoring to the short shorts (is it just me, or are you singing ‘who likes short shorts’?), this season will see shorts getting smaller. For something colourful, look no further than Dries Van Noten where 1960’s prints were transformed into shorts. But it was Prada that showed the most dedication to the trend, with 23 versions walking down the catwalk, many more akin to underpants than shorts. At other design houses, every style was on show, from sporty to leather, with bright shades to more muted, smarter tones, and the shorter the better. Although this might just be a trend that Brits, even in the recent hot and sunny weather, find difficult to take on board.
Besides white, neon brights prevailed at the likes of Versace, Louis Vuitton and Willy Chavarria. But for something more wearable, choose green. Bright neons were muted to khaki and sage, with all over looks at Oliver Spencer, Canali and Todd Snyder.
Bags, and lots of them, were the talk of the shows. My own personal favourite is the lunch bag at Kenzo. At Lanvin bucket bags were in favour, whilst Ermenegildo Zegna sashayed small purses down the runway.
Last but by no means least, bucket hats have gone high end. Bringing a little bit of Manchester to the fashion catwalk, Fendi and Valentino created patterned pieces, whilst Kent and Curwen made theirs look quintessentially British with patchworked motifs adorning the front.
Kent and Curwen
About Our Author: Katie Calvert's background is in fashion and textiles with a first class honours degree in Fashion Communication and Promotion and experience in trend, PR and events. She decided to take the plunge back into education in 2015 to complete a Master of Arts in Multimedia Journalism. Using these newfound skills and her love of fashion and culture, Katie has been freelance writing for over a year.